HAIPHONG...VIETNAM'S PRINCIPAL SEAPORT AND THIRD LARGEST CITY

Haiphong has the laid back feel of Hanoi two decades ago, yet scantly visited by overseas tourists. Dinner is at a popular bia hoi eatery, adjoining the brewery.

With graceful tree-lined boulevards, an impressive array of colonial-era buildings and an unhurried air, Haiphong is a very approachable city. It’s an important seaport and industrial centre but few visitors stop here long, probably because sights are thin on the ground. If you do pass through, you’ll find far fewer hassles than in Vietnam’s other main tourism centres, with barely a tout to be found.

Cafe culture is very strong here and Haiphong's relaxed cafes are the most enjoyable in Vietnam. There are dozens of great places in the central zone: P Minh Hieu is at the heart of the caffeine action. Virtually all of these cafes have street terraces, serve beer (try the local brewBia Haiphong) and have a snack menu.

The city is also noted for its sumptuous fresh seafood. P Quang Trung has a strip of places with point-and-cook tanks as well as bia hoi (beer) joints.